hello all
i'm in the uk for a while
shall be back on the road in feb
egypt
jordan
look back for more
bo
Friday, December 08, 2006
Tuesday, October 24, 2006
ok uk what
hi all
so ive been back over a week
naaah
this western life is not the realisty we all
need. I ve been blown away that folk are still coming back to this site
thanks and i shall update it soon.
namaste
bo
so ive been back over a week
naaah
this western life is not the realisty we all
need. I ve been blown away that folk are still coming back to this site
thanks and i shall update it soon.
namaste
bo
Thursday, October 12, 2006
sanitized tube
so i took my sanitized tube in the ether. crossing
towns i want to see and missing folk who may never know me.
all was quite, conditioned and quick. for a moment i was lulled into thinking it
is sanity but then again the sirens song always seems good to those that jump!
back in the uk it seems so quiet.
clean, controlled, spacious and controlled.
i must have done this thrity times and yet the marvel of
coming through the time zones and the strange
cultural portal never ceases to amase me.
in a way i ask,' did it happen?'
was it real so far, distant, mad and fantastic.?
its all out there waiting for you!
bo
towns i want to see and missing folk who may never know me.
all was quite, conditioned and quick. for a moment i was lulled into thinking it
is sanity but then again the sirens song always seems good to those that jump!
back in the uk it seems so quiet.
clean, controlled, spacious and controlled.
i must have done this thrity times and yet the marvel of
coming through the time zones and the strange
cultural portal never ceases to amase me.
in a way i ask,' did it happen?'
was it real so far, distant, mad and fantastic.?
its all out there waiting for you!
bo
Tuesday, October 10, 2006
cycle
well folks
this trip is almost over but the cycle goes on!
As most of you sleep i shall be winging my way across
the globe back to a similar time zone.
AS per usual its been a more than amazing trip.
I'd like to thank you all for taking the time and patience to read
this garbled script. All the typos and bad
grammer that really aren't a part of my literature
normally could be found here as i just sat and pored it out.
Also thanks to all the many thousands of folk who
were behind the scenes. The myriad indians that slaved to take this
silly fat white carcas overland.
the sound track for this trip cannot be found in any shops
but you can illegally download it all using some bit torrent clienb
let me know if you want the tracks
i may also be running travel tours in the future so stay tuned
if you fancy a go at the madness of asia or africa
the next posting should be the epilogue and also
some pictures for your fun viewing
cheers
bo
-----
p.s all comments welcome
leave your emails
this trip is almost over but the cycle goes on!
As most of you sleep i shall be winging my way across
the globe back to a similar time zone.
AS per usual its been a more than amazing trip.
I'd like to thank you all for taking the time and patience to read
this garbled script. All the typos and bad
grammer that really aren't a part of my literature
normally could be found here as i just sat and pored it out.
Also thanks to all the many thousands of folk who
were behind the scenes. The myriad indians that slaved to take this
silly fat white carcas overland.
the sound track for this trip cannot be found in any shops
but you can illegally download it all using some bit torrent clienb
let me know if you want the tracks
i may also be running travel tours in the future so stay tuned
if you fancy a go at the madness of asia or africa
the next posting should be the epilogue and also
some pictures for your fun viewing
cheers
bo
-----
p.s all comments welcome
leave your emails
rick shaw
yes my name is not rick shaw but if you have been to india then you know it could be
as everyone wants to know me as richard shaw
i guess you have to be an india traveller to get that one.
------------------------------------------------------------------
Well folks
today i did something that i never do
i shopped. I have never wanted to nor do i want to again
as its such an empty rediculous thing.
i mst have used half the richshaw drivers and also
unbelievably i got them to use the meters.
my teeth nearly fell out on that one.
these guys are merciless when i gets to trying to barter
i guess im getting on a bit and know the ropes somewhat.,
but when it comes to shopping
well its a waste of energy
when all around have nothing
goodness knows how folk back home
with cash do it
they have the amount that i have in rupess in dollars
and they can have anything they want
talk about hollow
anyhow
im beat
more before i fly
bo
as everyone wants to know me as richard shaw
i guess you have to be an india traveller to get that one.
------------------------------------------------------------------
Well folks
today i did something that i never do
i shopped. I have never wanted to nor do i want to again
as its such an empty rediculous thing.
i mst have used half the richshaw drivers and also
unbelievably i got them to use the meters.
my teeth nearly fell out on that one.
these guys are merciless when i gets to trying to barter
i guess im getting on a bit and know the ropes somewhat.,
but when it comes to shopping
well its a waste of energy
when all around have nothing
goodness knows how folk back home
with cash do it
they have the amount that i have in rupess in dollars
and they can have anything they want
talk about hollow
anyhow
im beat
more before i fly
bo
Sunday, October 08, 2006
Ganges back
I've thought about rafting on the Ganges for many a moon
so for my b'day I decided to give it a whirl.
this lovely river is green here
strange how it glows
I can recall it from varanassi being dog shit brown
but over here it still has the charm of its source and
doesn't contain the pollutants that are found further down stream.
I found a very pro outfit who have a joint
venture with a western company
the equip is good and also the people seem to be very well prepared
it was just myself and a south African girl who were on the trip
so I liked the idea of some solace on the river away from the hoards.
we met in the morning and drove north for 45 mins
before dis embarking and being givend the basics for rafting.
they had a neat machine that worked off the battery to blow the
baby up so it was nice to just relax and see the guides
not have to blow it all by hand.
the boat was nice and the tow other folk besides us and the driver
were apprentice Indians who were new to the rafting trade.
so we got on and into the main current.
the Ganges has a strange kinda south American feel to it when you get away from the roads
and folk who inhabit it. Monkeys on the shore and all manner of birds.( I even saw some
hornbills on my way back which is a big first.)
the river is 23kms from our boarding point back to rishikesh
a few grade three rapids and also some shanti small stuff that you can chill on.
so we paddled
we got wet
we got cold
we got warm
we smiled
screamed with fun
hailed the river
got wetter
and eventually I decided to just get in and drift
this green river just let me in and I flowed with the current
for about half an hour.
half an hour of mellow observing and spending time
watching the greenery.
when I eventually got back in we found our way to
some rocks that folk jump off
I felt like a 12yr old again in the rivers of England
when I walked off a 20ft drop and screamed to the river
yummy. Very nice
when we eventually got to rishikesh
I could smell humanity in the river
smell the folk
the incense and they waste
time to have a chai and watch it all
from the banks
I have a cold now and a slight ache
but the price of being reborn and
anew is worth it
om
bo
so for my b'day I decided to give it a whirl.
this lovely river is green here
strange how it glows
I can recall it from varanassi being dog shit brown
but over here it still has the charm of its source and
doesn't contain the pollutants that are found further down stream.
I found a very pro outfit who have a joint
venture with a western company
the equip is good and also the people seem to be very well prepared
it was just myself and a south African girl who were on the trip
so I liked the idea of some solace on the river away from the hoards.
we met in the morning and drove north for 45 mins
before dis embarking and being givend the basics for rafting.
they had a neat machine that worked off the battery to blow the
baby up so it was nice to just relax and see the guides
not have to blow it all by hand.
the boat was nice and the tow other folk besides us and the driver
were apprentice Indians who were new to the rafting trade.
so we got on and into the main current.
the Ganges has a strange kinda south American feel to it when you get away from the roads
and folk who inhabit it. Monkeys on the shore and all manner of birds.( I even saw some
hornbills on my way back which is a big first.)
the river is 23kms from our boarding point back to rishikesh
a few grade three rapids and also some shanti small stuff that you can chill on.
so we paddled
we got wet
we got cold
we got warm
we smiled
screamed with fun
hailed the river
got wetter
and eventually I decided to just get in and drift
this green river just let me in and I flowed with the current
for about half an hour.
half an hour of mellow observing and spending time
watching the greenery.
when I eventually got back in we found our way to
some rocks that folk jump off
I felt like a 12yr old again in the rivers of England
when I walked off a 20ft drop and screamed to the river
yummy. Very nice
when we eventually got to rishikesh
I could smell humanity in the river
smell the folk
the incense and they waste
time to have a chai and watch it all
from the banks
I have a cold now and a slight ache
but the price of being reborn and
anew is worth it
om
bo
Friday, October 06, 2006
mop top india head
coming upto rishikesh by train I sat on the train
and realized how much india had changed.
the wealth from the top has trickled down
and reached the masses in many ways.
my train was busy with middle class Indians and
a few travellers. it was along cry from my early days when
I took me a day of wrangling to get the ticket issued and
then a hard wooden seat as I had invariably been given
the wrong class.
on this occasion I had decided to go with the middle
class Indians to get back amongst them after delhi's 'scene'.
it's my favourite way to travel the train. the transience of everything mirrors back so
much of my life and experience. fun looking out at the affluent new houses
staring down at the effluent new houses by the riverbank
awash with plastic and crud. This really is the land of opposites and extremes.
having got to haridwar in the night
it took a little mad conversation to realize
that we cant go in one taxi as that's against the rules.
i.e. they have a monopoly and know how to rip the traveller off.
feigning disgust and acting my best I put on my
dr Livingston routine and told them it was pathetic.
how can you get annoyed over 3$?
eventually I was streaming my way past the river up
and by the Disney hotel( I shit you not) and the water theme park that has
been erected for the rich. Then by so many lovely weddings illuminating the night
with madness and light. Eventually I got to rishikesh or is it Tel Aviv?
anyway I was the only Englishman in an area that had about 100 Israelis
all celebrating the end of yom kippur. So it was indulge and bulge
those of you who know india know what it can be like!!!
(more for another time)
anyway I got a room with arather nice solo Israeli traveller
and am spending the few with him sharing
its a pretty place here, with the bridge and all.
its obviously changed so much since the mop top
scousers made it famous
you cant throw a cat without hitting some yoga teacher
or ashram.
-------------------------------------------------------
bo
and realized how much india had changed.
the wealth from the top has trickled down
and reached the masses in many ways.
my train was busy with middle class Indians and
a few travellers. it was along cry from my early days when
I took me a day of wrangling to get the ticket issued and
then a hard wooden seat as I had invariably been given
the wrong class.
on this occasion I had decided to go with the middle
class Indians to get back amongst them after delhi's 'scene'.
it's my favourite way to travel the train. the transience of everything mirrors back so
much of my life and experience. fun looking out at the affluent new houses
staring down at the effluent new houses by the riverbank
awash with plastic and crud. This really is the land of opposites and extremes.
having got to haridwar in the night
it took a little mad conversation to realize
that we cant go in one taxi as that's against the rules.
i.e. they have a monopoly and know how to rip the traveller off.
feigning disgust and acting my best I put on my
dr Livingston routine and told them it was pathetic.
how can you get annoyed over 3$?
eventually I was streaming my way past the river up
and by the Disney hotel( I shit you not) and the water theme park that has
been erected for the rich. Then by so many lovely weddings illuminating the night
with madness and light. Eventually I got to rishikesh or is it Tel Aviv?
anyway I was the only Englishman in an area that had about 100 Israelis
all celebrating the end of yom kippur. So it was indulge and bulge
those of you who know india know what it can be like!!!
(more for another time)
anyway I got a room with arather nice solo Israeli traveller
and am spending the few with him sharing
its a pretty place here, with the bridge and all.
its obviously changed so much since the mop top
scousers made it famous
you cant throw a cat without hitting some yoga teacher
or ashram.
-------------------------------------------------------
bo
Wednesday, October 04, 2006
birthday
hello all
well today is my birthday.
at 38 i have been travelling 'solo' for 22 years.
yes i am an old fart whos young at heart.
at this time 38 yrs ago my older brother was outside the small house i was born in
asking my mums friends if he could call me batman as he didnt want a brother called peter.
i've been blessed to visit over 50 countries
in my brief time on this planet
its still beautiful
thanks for following me
much more soon
bo
well today is my birthday.
at 38 i have been travelling 'solo' for 22 years.
yes i am an old fart whos young at heart.
at this time 38 yrs ago my older brother was outside the small house i was born in
asking my mums friends if he could call me batman as he didnt want a brother called peter.
i've been blessed to visit over 50 countries
in my brief time on this planet
its still beautiful
thanks for following me
much more soon
bo
Tuesday, October 03, 2006
lullaby
a small excerpt from my completely new journal
which is rather odd as i never kep a journal.
iam fortunate in that i can recall everything thats happened
almost!
I feel that in many ways back home we are asleep, anaesthetised from
the realities of the planet. Society's trick is to keep us dulled
and away from seeking real answers,meaning and fulfilment.
When i travel I 'wake up' and see the dawn, feel raw to the earth
ans sky -all the pain and wonder of life hits me and passes through'
i'm in rishkesh now.
ohh dear beatles what have you done!
more soon
bo
which is rather odd as i never kep a journal.
iam fortunate in that i can recall everything thats happened
almost!
I feel that in many ways back home we are asleep, anaesthetised from
the realities of the planet. Society's trick is to keep us dulled
and away from seeking real answers,meaning and fulfilment.
When i travel I 'wake up' and see the dawn, feel raw to the earth
ans sky -all the pain and wonder of life hits me and passes through'
i'm in rishkesh now.
ohh dear beatles what have you done!
more soon
bo
Sunday, October 01, 2006
lumbering mass
still in delhi now
the shatabdi express is the very fast version of the
japanese bullet train. (It actualy moves at 60 miles an hour but
for india that is very fast indeed!)
It's an experience as its full of rich indians who are overweight and get
almost everything done for them. Yes folks its all about the cash on that vehicle.
So each time i come here i try and get at least a journey on it just to juxta pose
it's internal existence compared to the realities outside the window.
there is something quite sick about it actually.
fat folk moving around on a bubble of air conditioned metal
while outside folk scrape to make ends meet.
in many ways i can see the parallels with the rich in the west.
we all live in debt and the rich float above looking down in a bubble of
anaesthetized nonchalance.
the staff onbaod had to work flat out as in my 5 hrs from amritsar to delhi
we had three meals of quite a good quality. they also served drinks and pandered to the rich folks demands. the extreme difference between rich and poor here is very obvious
whereas in the uk we hide it behind debt and a stiff upper loin cloth.
the lady next to me for the first half of the trip was a doctor who had just moved to canada.
we talked of corruption and the billions that are creamed off here by the elite
as the poor cant even get a meal.
a little bit like how the us government gave over 110$ million to build
the superdome donw in the hurrican hit south and yet folk havent even got
enough to rebuild homes or for basic eminities.( will someone please wake dreamland america up
to the realities that it shares alot of the third world issues with india!!)
anyhow the other guy next to me was a website database cha who did some work for the
uk companies in leeds and yorkshire my hometown.
small world hey?
so we ate too much
felt fine in the ac
moaned about the long journeyish?
then the rich had their bags moved by coolies
and i walked off back into the screaming mass of humanity that dwells
on the sidewalk near the entrance to the olde world charm that is the
indian railway station
you have to come here
soon to see it before its all gone
bo
the shatabdi express is the very fast version of the
japanese bullet train. (It actualy moves at 60 miles an hour but
for india that is very fast indeed!)
It's an experience as its full of rich indians who are overweight and get
almost everything done for them. Yes folks its all about the cash on that vehicle.
So each time i come here i try and get at least a journey on it just to juxta pose
it's internal existence compared to the realities outside the window.
there is something quite sick about it actually.
fat folk moving around on a bubble of air conditioned metal
while outside folk scrape to make ends meet.
in many ways i can see the parallels with the rich in the west.
we all live in debt and the rich float above looking down in a bubble of
anaesthetized nonchalance.
the staff onbaod had to work flat out as in my 5 hrs from amritsar to delhi
we had three meals of quite a good quality. they also served drinks and pandered to the rich folks demands. the extreme difference between rich and poor here is very obvious
whereas in the uk we hide it behind debt and a stiff upper loin cloth.
the lady next to me for the first half of the trip was a doctor who had just moved to canada.
we talked of corruption and the billions that are creamed off here by the elite
as the poor cant even get a meal.
a little bit like how the us government gave over 110$ million to build
the superdome donw in the hurrican hit south and yet folk havent even got
enough to rebuild homes or for basic eminities.( will someone please wake dreamland america up
to the realities that it shares alot of the third world issues with india!!)
anyhow the other guy next to me was a website database cha who did some work for the
uk companies in leeds and yorkshire my hometown.
small world hey?
so we ate too much
felt fine in the ac
moaned about the long journeyish?
then the rich had their bags moved by coolies
and i walked off back into the screaming mass of humanity that dwells
on the sidewalk near the entrance to the olde world charm that is the
indian railway station
you have to come here
soon to see it before its all gone
bo
Saturday, September 30, 2006
olde delhi
its been a day of sweat ,walking and even more walking.
yes delhi really is hotting up. a walk around olde delhi is always an experience and an insight whe
you look whrere there was once a temple there now stands a mc donalds. another temple hey?
i had a full day of visiting then went on what can only be called a fantastic underground system
from olde delhi to new delhi. clean mean ac transport machine.
hard to belive that it used to be a mad struggle to get from a-b(it still is but its easier now!)
then on for a quick pizza at the moern mad pizza hut which beove it or not you have to book as its so full of rich indians talking english and trying to be western.
tonight i shal watch a game in some ac wonderounge and then go off to the north for some fun on monday.
more soon
bo
yes delhi really is hotting up. a walk around olde delhi is always an experience and an insight whe
you look whrere there was once a temple there now stands a mc donalds. another temple hey?
i had a full day of visiting then went on what can only be called a fantastic underground system
from olde delhi to new delhi. clean mean ac transport machine.
hard to belive that it used to be a mad struggle to get from a-b(it still is but its easier now!)
then on for a quick pizza at the moern mad pizza hut which beove it or not you have to book as its so full of rich indians talking english and trying to be western.
tonight i shal watch a game in some ac wonderounge and then go off to the north for some fun on monday.
more soon
bo
Friday, September 29, 2006
sweaty betty
hi all
i am sweating my cobbs off here in delhi
this is the earliest i have been here in the late season and its still too hot
this place is changing very quickly.
macdonalds etc...
it seems to be beggin season full on here at the moment also
much more than when i was last here some months ago
in a move to beat the heat i shall be going up north
alas my ankle is proving to be somewhat of a problem
possibly it will go down in the heat
buti cant get very far with my back pack and
day sack
so its probably a hill station
up past rishkesh
of course i may have to watch the match on sat?
who knows
more fuckwhittery from the edge
soon
bo
i am sweating my cobbs off here in delhi
this is the earliest i have been here in the late season and its still too hot
this place is changing very quickly.
macdonalds etc...
it seems to be beggin season full on here at the moment also
much more than when i was last here some months ago
in a move to beat the heat i shall be going up north
alas my ankle is proving to be somewhat of a problem
possibly it will go down in the heat
buti cant get very far with my back pack and
day sack
so its probably a hill station
up past rishkesh
of course i may have to watch the match on sat?
who knows
more fuckwhittery from the edge
soon
bo
Thursday, September 28, 2006
punjab pete
well folks i'm here in sweaty olde punjab and i must say its charming!
the roads are great the seikhs are charming and the place is generally very laid back.
the seikhs have a huge work ethic and itshows on the infrastructure.
Also they are extremely warm open and friendly.
I cant recall a religion that allows acess to its deepest religious area with so much charm
warmth and welcome. The golden temple really is a nice must see that i fully recommend.
Believe me tehre arent many of tose about.
I walked around the temple inside and out with my cam and most folk just smiled and welcomed me
alone.
I could have eaten with them but instead i went to photograph the kitchens and the cooks.
such a lovely spot to get away from the heat.
i am blsting back t delhi for a few days to reconsider my next move.
ive almost accomplished everything on this part of my journey so i'm
going to regroup and work out more skullduggery in delhi.
more soon
bo
the roads are great the seikhs are charming and the place is generally very laid back.
the seikhs have a huge work ethic and itshows on the infrastructure.
Also they are extremely warm open and friendly.
I cant recall a religion that allows acess to its deepest religious area with so much charm
warmth and welcome. The golden temple really is a nice must see that i fully recommend.
Believe me tehre arent many of tose about.
I walked around the temple inside and out with my cam and most folk just smiled and welcomed me
alone.
I could have eaten with them but instead i went to photograph the kitchens and the cooks.
such a lovely spot to get away from the heat.
i am blsting back t delhi for a few days to reconsider my next move.
ive almost accomplished everything on this part of my journey so i'm
going to regroup and work out more skullduggery in delhi.
more soon
bo
Tuesday, September 26, 2006
Dr mahoons squint clinic
yes folks I am staying in a small overpriced place in chandigar
near the famous doctors squint clinic.
Thos place is trully bizarre.
wide open streets..everything is miles apart
rich indians many of them seikhs
walk along the shopping malls and look at overpriced western clothes shops like
adidas and reebok,also lots of silly copies.
it never ceases to amase me how they strive to lok
and act like us. jeans cars hair breasts skin colour face
talk walk shit etc.....
amasing the power of the western culture.
I actually ate at subway which i woulld NEVER
do back home but it had some nice curry mixes here.
so i am off to amritsar in about an hr or so.
let me know how you all are and if you are still finding this fuckwhittery interesting
more soon
bo
near the famous doctors squint clinic.
Thos place is trully bizarre.
wide open streets..everything is miles apart
rich indians many of them seikhs
walk along the shopping malls and look at overpriced western clothes shops like
adidas and reebok,also lots of silly copies.
it never ceases to amase me how they strive to lok
and act like us. jeans cars hair breasts skin colour face
talk walk shit etc.....
amasing the power of the western culture.
I actually ate at subway which i woulld NEVER
do back home but it had some nice curry mixes here.
so i am off to amritsar in about an hr or so.
let me know how you all are and if you are still finding this fuckwhittery interesting
more soon
bo
Sunday, September 24, 2006
ryder cup
hi all
i have just waatched europe retain the ryder cup again.
(In between trying to scare a troop of monkeys off the
fence near my room)
it's getting a wee bit cold up here
good to see that its 30 degrees C in chandigar
I hope that all your weekends are nice and relaxing
as mine have been watching footie and smiling at the wildlife.
I hear interesting things from chandigar
it was actually designed by lecorbusier(spelling is terrible i know)
so i am looking forward to a new experience in india.
Then it's onto the amritsar and its history of seikh holiness.
more soon
stay warm
bo
i have just waatched europe retain the ryder cup again.
(In between trying to scare a troop of monkeys off the
fence near my room)
it's getting a wee bit cold up here
good to see that its 30 degrees C in chandigar
I hope that all your weekends are nice and relaxing
as mine have been watching footie and smiling at the wildlife.
I hear interesting things from chandigar
it was actually designed by lecorbusier(spelling is terrible i know)
so i am looking forward to a new experience in india.
Then it's onto the amritsar and its history of seikh holiness.
more soon
stay warm
bo
repeat
this is the second blog ive done today
the last one was cut off by a brief power cut.
i'm in simla now
which is similar to oxford in the hills of the lower himalaya.
this place was built by the british to house
the empire on the hot monsoon days that come here
in the summer.
its a cool alititude hill station that is
a little cold and a little creaking in its
attempts to maintain the order that the
empirialists created.
it does have some classic old buildings that date
about 200 yrs oldand an old church called christ church.
monkeys everywhere, pretty cheeky too.
my ankle is kinda sore so i think no
trekking and a move to a slightly warmer climate.
so its looking like chandigarh
then onto amritsar
for the golden temple.
im a little dizzy and may have a smal ear infection but
i can tell you of that soon
anyway better get this on the web before i lose it al again
it shal be a tad more interesting soon
bo
the last one was cut off by a brief power cut.
i'm in simla now
which is similar to oxford in the hills of the lower himalaya.
this place was built by the british to house
the empire on the hot monsoon days that come here
in the summer.
its a cool alititude hill station that is
a little cold and a little creaking in its
attempts to maintain the order that the
empirialists created.
it does have some classic old buildings that date
about 200 yrs oldand an old church called christ church.
monkeys everywhere, pretty cheeky too.
my ankle is kinda sore so i think no
trekking and a move to a slightly warmer climate.
so its looking like chandigarh
then onto amritsar
for the golden temple.
im a little dizzy and may have a smal ear infection but
i can tell you of that soon
anyway better get this on the web before i lose it al again
it shal be a tad more interesting soon
bo
Friday, September 22, 2006
random converse
this is an actual conversation i had last week while i was on the bike.
I pulled over for a rest and a drink in a smal village
above the place where I was staying.
'molestation sir?'
'I beg your pardon?'
'molestation!'
'not for me thanks!'
'no! molestation sir?'
'really i am fine!'
'no, the meaning of this word sir?'
'in what context?'
'the meaning of which this word is coming from?'
'Yes but can you show me the article'
he then showed me the article that he had seen in the paper.
I tried my best to define what this school teacher may have done.
he looked on and thejn turned to his collegue.
'Messing sexually with the minor'
only india can offer this off teh wall oddity
-------------------------------------------------
i walked into an empty post office.
waited at least five minutes patently for the chap working over the
counter on his computer.
he looked up annoyed and asked me what i wanted.
I need to know the rates for parcels,' I asked.
he looked at me and said that i should be at the next counter.
i walked over and waited.
2 mins later he walked over and looked at me and asked
'yes please?'
the same guy ? it was monty python incarnate.
ony in india hey??
bo
I pulled over for a rest and a drink in a smal village
above the place where I was staying.
'molestation sir?'
'I beg your pardon?'
'molestation!'
'not for me thanks!'
'no! molestation sir?'
'really i am fine!'
'no, the meaning of this word sir?'
'in what context?'
'the meaning of which this word is coming from?'
'Yes but can you show me the article'
he then showed me the article that he had seen in the paper.
I tried my best to define what this school teacher may have done.
he looked on and thejn turned to his collegue.
'Messing sexually with the minor'
only india can offer this off teh wall oddity
-------------------------------------------------
i walked into an empty post office.
waited at least five minutes patently for the chap working over the
counter on his computer.
he looked up annoyed and asked me what i wanted.
I need to know the rates for parcels,' I asked.
he looked at me and said that i should be at the next counter.
i walked over and waited.
2 mins later he walked over and looked at me and asked
'yes please?'
the same guy ? it was monty python incarnate.
ony in india hey??
bo
Wednesday, September 20, 2006
handsome and bright
can you belive it?
this is the new cream to make you whiter in india
talk about gross cultural ignorance and greedhead nonesense.
well i am moving tomorrow down to simla.
its geting a wee bit chilly here.
there will be more stella fuckwhittery from there
now i need to catch a movie and pack some stuff
its the bus for me
till tom
bo
this is the new cream to make you whiter in india
talk about gross cultural ignorance and greedhead nonesense.
well i am moving tomorrow down to simla.
its geting a wee bit chilly here.
there will be more stella fuckwhittery from there
now i need to catch a movie and pack some stuff
its the bus for me
till tom
bo
Monday, September 18, 2006
movies
now that i can see my ankle i have been able to get back on the bike.
Yesterday I wnet up the valley looking for possible climbing routes
for a future time. The bike(another model now) was slipping out of gear
and i was having to adjust for cows, shep, people etc so it was
a good tester for my ankle.
The weather is glorious now so i
had a lovely time gently caressing the hills with my enfield.
On entering the pass not too far from the end of the valley I noticed a commotion
on the left. Some three hundred folk were congrugated with all manner of
technical equipment. I pulled over and investigated, camera at the ready.
Within tow ticks I found myself on a movie set. The director invited me on and they
allowed me to observe the shinnanigans and commotion.what a fascinating experience watching ego and technology move into action. there seemed to be two people for ever task. everyone needed a private unmbrella holder and even a telephone dialler! This being india
were the labour is cheap the meant that almost everyone had some form
of slave or fetchit.
I stayed for 20 mins walking amongst the technicians and shaking a few hands.
it was an interesting site but after my time on movie sets some ten years ago
down in hampi(another story) i soon tired and jumped on my bike and headed into the hills.
the valley here really is lovely and i managed to find a few paragliders gently riding the hills
anbd enjoying the sun.
very nice
bo
Yesterday I wnet up the valley looking for possible climbing routes
for a future time. The bike(another model now) was slipping out of gear
and i was having to adjust for cows, shep, people etc so it was
a good tester for my ankle.
The weather is glorious now so i
had a lovely time gently caressing the hills with my enfield.
On entering the pass not too far from the end of the valley I noticed a commotion
on the left. Some three hundred folk were congrugated with all manner of
technical equipment. I pulled over and investigated, camera at the ready.
Within tow ticks I found myself on a movie set. The director invited me on and they
allowed me to observe the shinnanigans and commotion.what a fascinating experience watching ego and technology move into action. there seemed to be two people for ever task. everyone needed a private unmbrella holder and even a telephone dialler! This being india
were the labour is cheap the meant that almost everyone had some form
of slave or fetchit.
I stayed for 20 mins walking amongst the technicians and shaking a few hands.
it was an interesting site but after my time on movie sets some ten years ago
down in hampi(another story) i soon tired and jumped on my bike and headed into the hills.
the valley here really is lovely and i managed to find a few paragliders gently riding the hills
anbd enjoying the sun.
very nice
bo
fidel castro
saturday night was an interesting experience.
I had heard of this small palce some 7 kms
south of whre i am that showed satellite tv and premier league
football live. So i got in a suicidal rickshaw and sped over ther
for the kick off.
On arrival I heard this crazy roar from the crowd and on walking in
i was deafened by full speakers blasting my head off from
one of the main football grounds in London. Bizarre!
I met a scot that I had bumper into up the high passes
and iordered a drink. The strange thisg was this place could have
been any local anywhere in the uk. The obvious difference
was that when you look to the left of
the screen you had the himalayas and some amazing views.
not quite what wwe have at the three horseshoes hey.
just as i thought things couldn't get any better
they closed the curtains and a gian screen appeared for the second game.
the volume went up and everyone settled down for a few hrs of footie.
Of course this is the himalaya and soon almost everyuone in the joint
was rolling a joint smelling the whole joint out. It's alwasy
odd sitting in a public area watching several of the underbelly
figures skin up with absolutely no fear
or regard for the law.
Before long the whole place was adrift in hash fumes.
Not being a partaker I observed the atmosphere alter into
a more chilled amsterdam vibe. Then across the bar
i noticed a weak looking figure with the white beard
and frail hands.
Imlloed at the scot next to me and said, 'either you have slipped me so
me of that shit or else thats fidel castro.'
He looked over and with a stoned stupper burst out laughing.
'fuck me, i knew that old git was laying low but this is rediculous.'
The evening went on in a simlar vein with the sublime
trying to outdo the rediculous.
--------------------------
epilogue
last night he was sat behind me again.
i belive he is following me for advice on the present social
impending crisis to hit cuba. I'm not for talking......
I had heard of this small palce some 7 kms
south of whre i am that showed satellite tv and premier league
football live. So i got in a suicidal rickshaw and sped over ther
for the kick off.
On arrival I heard this crazy roar from the crowd and on walking in
i was deafened by full speakers blasting my head off from
one of the main football grounds in London. Bizarre!
I met a scot that I had bumper into up the high passes
and iordered a drink. The strange thisg was this place could have
been any local anywhere in the uk. The obvious difference
was that when you look to the left of
the screen you had the himalayas and some amazing views.
not quite what wwe have at the three horseshoes hey.
just as i thought things couldn't get any better
they closed the curtains and a gian screen appeared for the second game.
the volume went up and everyone settled down for a few hrs of footie.
Of course this is the himalaya and soon almost everyuone in the joint
was rolling a joint smelling the whole joint out. It's alwasy
odd sitting in a public area watching several of the underbelly
figures skin up with absolutely no fear
or regard for the law.
Before long the whole place was adrift in hash fumes.
Not being a partaker I observed the atmosphere alter into
a more chilled amsterdam vibe. Then across the bar
i noticed a weak looking figure with the white beard
and frail hands.
Imlloed at the scot next to me and said, 'either you have slipped me so
me of that shit or else thats fidel castro.'
He looked over and with a stoned stupper burst out laughing.
'fuck me, i knew that old git was laying low but this is rediculous.'
The evening went on in a simlar vein with the sublime
trying to outdo the rediculous.
--------------------------
epilogue
last night he was sat behind me again.
i belive he is following me for advice on the present social
impending crisis to hit cuba. I'm not for talking......
Friday, September 15, 2006
hop along mcdougal
with a leg like long john silvers
I have been walking around the town with
most folk looking at me like i was naked.
It looks as though the sweeling will take a while to go down
but i am doing fine.
woke from an amazingly deep sleep this afternoon which is very usual for me.
so im going to be up for a while tonight.
----------------------------------
observations
coca colas only uses
killing bad stomach bugs
cleaning silver and old rusted metal
------------------------
why so much noise in india?
(after riding the enfield i have come to some more conclusions!)
why you need a horn!
-indians are used to so much noise so if you dont
honk you arent there?
-indians are partially deaf
-indians have no give way ideas or habits
-indians have little road sense
and i mean those coming onto the road as paedestrians also
-its a free for all(cluster fuck) with a few chances to get there
im sure there are many more
well is shall have to replan my route through parvati valley and get some ideas
as to the next three weeks or so
shall be online tom
stay smiling
bo
I have been walking around the town with
most folk looking at me like i was naked.
It looks as though the sweeling will take a while to go down
but i am doing fine.
woke from an amazingly deep sleep this afternoon which is very usual for me.
so im going to be up for a while tonight.
----------------------------------
observations
coca colas only uses
killing bad stomach bugs
cleaning silver and old rusted metal
------------------------
why so much noise in india?
(after riding the enfield i have come to some more conclusions!)
why you need a horn!
-indians are used to so much noise so if you dont
honk you arent there?
-indians are partially deaf
-indians have no give way ideas or habits
-indians have little road sense
and i mean those coming onto the road as paedestrians also
-its a free for all(cluster fuck) with a few chances to get there
im sure there are many more
well is shall have to replan my route through parvati valley and get some ideas
as to the next three weeks or so
shall be online tom
stay smiling
bo
Thursday, September 14, 2006
flying
today it rained. I dont care as its been a lovely few days for me here.
in many ways i feel quite satisfied with many of the things that i have done.
I went for a walk around the markets today. Sadly after leaving a small shop
i went flying on the wet grime that characterises so much of the small
areas around these mountain towns. I keeled over in the rain and didnt move for
a sec not sure if i had broken my ankle. luckily no!
The great thing was after a few secs a few kind indians came rushing out of the shops
to assist me up and shake me down. lovely folk so nice.
'sir you must come to my shop and wash your hands!'
It's sprained and I wont know how bad till tomorrow.
C'est la vie
i should go and rest now
stay well
wherever the sun is shinning
bo
in many ways i feel quite satisfied with many of the things that i have done.
I went for a walk around the markets today. Sadly after leaving a small shop
i went flying on the wet grime that characterises so much of the small
areas around these mountain towns. I keeled over in the rain and didnt move for
a sec not sure if i had broken my ankle. luckily no!
The great thing was after a few secs a few kind indians came rushing out of the shops
to assist me up and shake me down. lovely folk so nice.
'sir you must come to my shop and wash your hands!'
It's sprained and I wont know how bad till tomorrow.
C'est la vie
i should go and rest now
stay well
wherever the sun is shinning
bo
Royal enfield 'bullet'
The big bomber
For those of you who are not familiar with the Enfield motorbike
I can tell you it's one of India's most endearing road features.
Gifted to the Indians by the british this wonderbike can be
hjeard up and downt the land blasting its sound, something
between a helicopter and a tractor.
Well yesterday was my turn to be free on this mechanical beauty.
My guest houyse owner took my word when I said I was going to
rent a bike and immediately offered me one of his three. He took
me over to his front drive and gave me the oldest meanest looking
motherfucker that you have ever seen. This thing had to be the
chain smocker of all enfields. It looked like it had been set upon by
several drunk rednecks with basball bats.
He started her up and then gave me a go. It was a no go for me.
These babies are much different to your normal back and the
gearing was all lose and old. Five times later I had it going only to
get to the gate and let her stall again. Not bothered I let in the clutch and
drifted down the hill and began my odyssey. For five minutes before it konked again.
I had a whole family watch me as I wrested to get it into neutral.
Ten mins of messing around burning hands and tired legs and I moved
it off onto the mad roads of manali.
Few folk can ever have felt the freedom of the unadulterated road
on an enfield. The traffic was mad for the first few miles. My sphincter had
a very good work out trying to undserstand what to do as two trucks overtook on
a blind hairpin as I was coming around the turn. Not to mention the cows,chickens
children,goats and all manner of farmhouse attire. There's notrhing quite like shitting yourslef
a the sight of a cow slowly blocking your way as you try and hammer on all breaks and force the bike through a 2 foot gap.
Soon enough I was out of the city and away up higher into the thin air that rims the valley.
Truly free, hair blowing, ebgine blaring and my smile bigger than the empire state I found
it completely exhilirating to be back in tyhe saddle after a 4 year break. The last time
I had been in Nepal with a piece of shit yamaha where as now I was on a big
boy blating through the passes.
I stopped along the way for drinks and often to get the gears working again as
they were old and alittle lose to say the least. It was a little like a lucky dip trying tofind neutral again!! But the road called away into the distance and I followed beaming along.
I eventually got to a small viallge called naggar which has a castle on the top that has been renevated. I parked at the bottom and walked up the steep slopes to a fantastic wooden place on the hill. Behind it I walked through a small town that was seeing swift development.
I looked up and there on a balcony was a smiling face asking me what I was looking for.
Within minutes I was up talking to him about renting houses and trekking in the
high passes that surround the kullu valley. Sadly he had lost his father ten days before so
we sat and talked about life and the transient nature of it all for some time.
It was a very moving time and we shared some of our experiences before I took off and
drove back up the valley.
I stopped at a strange shop that managed to catch my eye as it sold /down home made
mountaneering equipment. AS I walked in the owner came from nowhere and started teling me of his times with the world's great climbers,(he also had pictures to show me of them!) WE sat and chatted for a while about the changing valley and the face of climbing today. Nice, relaxed and comfortable.
Tehn it was on and oof back to my home village for the evening movie and meal.
I was flying and the sun still shinning had burnt me as I flew through the cool
waterfall air before I began the steep ascent upto vashisht.
With less than 200 meteres to go I thought I had done it
with hardly a gear missplaced. Then as I came round the lst corner a huge cow
had decided to blockj the road! I pulled up stalled and it took me ten mintues
to get the beast back on the road. Yes that cow had beaten me and taught me a vital lesson.
always watch out for cows on blind hairpin bends in india. I wonder how many bikers have been
caught out by that one.
hmmmm
Bo
For those of you who are not familiar with the Enfield motorbike
I can tell you it's one of India's most endearing road features.
Gifted to the Indians by the british this wonderbike can be
hjeard up and downt the land blasting its sound, something
between a helicopter and a tractor.
Well yesterday was my turn to be free on this mechanical beauty.
My guest houyse owner took my word when I said I was going to
rent a bike and immediately offered me one of his three. He took
me over to his front drive and gave me the oldest meanest looking
motherfucker that you have ever seen. This thing had to be the
chain smocker of all enfields. It looked like it had been set upon by
several drunk rednecks with basball bats.
He started her up and then gave me a go. It was a no go for me.
These babies are much different to your normal back and the
gearing was all lose and old. Five times later I had it going only to
get to the gate and let her stall again. Not bothered I let in the clutch and
drifted down the hill and began my odyssey. For five minutes before it konked again.
I had a whole family watch me as I wrested to get it into neutral.
Ten mins of messing around burning hands and tired legs and I moved
it off onto the mad roads of manali.
Few folk can ever have felt the freedom of the unadulterated road
on an enfield. The traffic was mad for the first few miles. My sphincter had
a very good work out trying to undserstand what to do as two trucks overtook on
a blind hairpin as I was coming around the turn. Not to mention the cows,chickens
children,goats and all manner of farmhouse attire. There's notrhing quite like shitting yourslef
a the sight of a cow slowly blocking your way as you try and hammer on all breaks and force the bike through a 2 foot gap.
Soon enough I was out of the city and away up higher into the thin air that rims the valley.
Truly free, hair blowing, ebgine blaring and my smile bigger than the empire state I found
it completely exhilirating to be back in tyhe saddle after a 4 year break. The last time
I had been in Nepal with a piece of shit yamaha where as now I was on a big
boy blating through the passes.
I stopped along the way for drinks and often to get the gears working again as
they were old and alittle lose to say the least. It was a little like a lucky dip trying tofind neutral again!! But the road called away into the distance and I followed beaming along.
I eventually got to a small viallge called naggar which has a castle on the top that has been renevated. I parked at the bottom and walked up the steep slopes to a fantastic wooden place on the hill. Behind it I walked through a small town that was seeing swift development.
I looked up and there on a balcony was a smiling face asking me what I was looking for.
Within minutes I was up talking to him about renting houses and trekking in the
high passes that surround the kullu valley. Sadly he had lost his father ten days before so
we sat and talked about life and the transient nature of it all for some time.
It was a very moving time and we shared some of our experiences before I took off and
drove back up the valley.
I stopped at a strange shop that managed to catch my eye as it sold /down home made
mountaneering equipment. AS I walked in the owner came from nowhere and started teling me of his times with the world's great climbers,(he also had pictures to show me of them!) WE sat and chatted for a while about the changing valley and the face of climbing today. Nice, relaxed and comfortable.
Tehn it was on and oof back to my home village for the evening movie and meal.
I was flying and the sun still shinning had burnt me as I flew through the cool
waterfall air before I began the steep ascent upto vashisht.
With less than 200 meteres to go I thought I had done it
with hardly a gear missplaced. Then as I came round the lst corner a huge cow
had decided to blockj the road! I pulled up stalled and it took me ten mintues
to get the beast back on the road. Yes that cow had beaten me and taught me a vital lesson.
always watch out for cows on blind hairpin bends in india. I wonder how many bikers have been
caught out by that one.
hmmmm
Bo
Tuesday, September 12, 2006
the little guy
I have just come back from a rather nice hike to the higher base of the
waterfall that i visited the other day. it was nice and early,
refreshing like a cup of tea and there wasn't a soul in site.
I walked past a new school being built by local people for there children!
Yes I think this is what made me think once again about the sense of community these
people have. Out here for the local who isnt milking the toursit this is
a hard back breaking existence with the reward of life and a short respite from more
work that will continue untill death. Yet, these folk seem to be able to rise above it.
I am a rich tourist-For years I ahev called myslef the walking dollar
as in effect that is what we are. We bring some 'hope' and at the same time we
bring inevitable distruction greed and false pretense in that our fast food
fast life fast no spce existence will bring us somehow closer to being complete.
Much of what we have and give to the world appeals to the simple urge we have to eat
consume and maintain before the next drought, famine etc... that need has been hijacked by
greed heads that run or is it ruin our beautiful planet. It's not easy here as I moan about my 18hrs across the passes or that fact that I have a back seat on a bus, but when I look out at the masses that work in absolute squalor with no silly pension plan car or mortgage I see that the simple life is in many ways much better. When we have achieved food warmth and shelter and safety for our family we often become indulgent with the surplus that we generate leading to what we have now. I am rambling but due to my own experiences I really do empathise with what the 'common man' i.e. 99.999999% of the planet have.
in your day try and think of those half naked folk who toil on the worlds highest passes
for 10p an hour putting down asphelt manually in all weathers.
i have changed
it is the only constant
b
waterfall that i visited the other day. it was nice and early,
refreshing like a cup of tea and there wasn't a soul in site.
I walked past a new school being built by local people for there children!
Yes I think this is what made me think once again about the sense of community these
people have. Out here for the local who isnt milking the toursit this is
a hard back breaking existence with the reward of life and a short respite from more
work that will continue untill death. Yet, these folk seem to be able to rise above it.
I am a rich tourist-For years I ahev called myslef the walking dollar
as in effect that is what we are. We bring some 'hope' and at the same time we
bring inevitable distruction greed and false pretense in that our fast food
fast life fast no spce existence will bring us somehow closer to being complete.
Much of what we have and give to the world appeals to the simple urge we have to eat
consume and maintain before the next drought, famine etc... that need has been hijacked by
greed heads that run or is it ruin our beautiful planet. It's not easy here as I moan about my 18hrs across the passes or that fact that I have a back seat on a bus, but when I look out at the masses that work in absolute squalor with no silly pension plan car or mortgage I see that the simple life is in many ways much better. When we have achieved food warmth and shelter and safety for our family we often become indulgent with the surplus that we generate leading to what we have now. I am rambling but due to my own experiences I really do empathise with what the 'common man' i.e. 99.999999% of the planet have.
in your day try and think of those half naked folk who toil on the worlds highest passes
for 10p an hour putting down asphelt manually in all weathers.
i have changed
it is the only constant
b
Monday, September 11, 2006
monk on a motor bike
In the mood for the hills I headed south along the valley floor.
Although raging development has made it into somewhat of a race for
construction rights the valley is still somewhat of a beautifull place.
I even found a holiday inn which was rather trippy being out here sat amonngst
the hills. Eventually I found the small village that I had been looking for;
Jaget sukh. This small place is fast developing and famous as it has a british
pub owned by a a brit that shows premier league football. Yes my team maybe
arse attack bad but i fancy a long session with one eye on the mountains and the other
on the tv. All you football fans understand the calling? Don't you?
anyway, i had my ten rupees shave and the hitched back to town on three separate
rides with people smiling the whole way home. A quick feed and then a walk through the
markets and a rickshaw back up the hill where it's a bit cooler.
i'm a bit too tired now but will fill you in with some inner observations tom
bo
Although raging development has made it into somewhat of a race for
construction rights the valley is still somewhat of a beautifull place.
I even found a holiday inn which was rather trippy being out here sat amonngst
the hills. Eventually I found the small village that I had been looking for;
Jaget sukh. This small place is fast developing and famous as it has a british
pub owned by a a brit that shows premier league football. Yes my team maybe
arse attack bad but i fancy a long session with one eye on the mountains and the other
on the tv. All you football fans understand the calling? Don't you?
anyway, i had my ten rupees shave and the hitched back to town on three separate
rides with people smiling the whole way home. A quick feed and then a walk through the
markets and a rickshaw back up the hill where it's a bit cooler.
i'm a bit too tired now but will fill you in with some inner observations tom
bo
small rain thoughts to pass
I woke this morning to see that the mist had descended from the
peaks to blot the valley out below.typical english weather came down
and was eventually burnt away by the sun.
I spent the other day on a small hike to the waterfall round the back
of of the hot spings here on the valley wall. Very nice walk indeed!
when i got there pristine glacial waters housed all manner of
wildlife. Dippers dipping, dragonflies flying, wagtails wagging.
I just sat there and read played in the shallows for an hour or so with
my trusty kiwi/oz companion who has now gone back to sweaty delhi.
what a lovely time. The valley is home to all manner of beast. Looking up
you can see eagles and hawks in the heights patrolling for the odd carcas.
the waterwall seemed to go on for ever and the rocks each side seemed to be
ideal for sport climbing. more virgin rock here for the fit and luney!!
It made me think of the distance we have put between nature and our
unsustainable life back home in the west. WE have fallen away from what was once a rather interesting marriage with the wild. Living in boxes, moving in boxes, motivated by fear and wants we are divorced from the chance of some kind of union with the cycle s of life.
Theres much more to this theme ....
lets hope that the power stay on and i can write more later
i am off for a walk now to a small village some miles south.
stay smiley
bo
peaks to blot the valley out below.typical english weather came down
and was eventually burnt away by the sun.
I spent the other day on a small hike to the waterfall round the back
of of the hot spings here on the valley wall. Very nice walk indeed!
when i got there pristine glacial waters housed all manner of
wildlife. Dippers dipping, dragonflies flying, wagtails wagging.
I just sat there and read played in the shallows for an hour or so with
my trusty kiwi/oz companion who has now gone back to sweaty delhi.
what a lovely time. The valley is home to all manner of beast. Looking up
you can see eagles and hawks in the heights patrolling for the odd carcas.
the waterwall seemed to go on for ever and the rocks each side seemed to be
ideal for sport climbing. more virgin rock here for the fit and luney!!
It made me think of the distance we have put between nature and our
unsustainable life back home in the west. WE have fallen away from what was once a rather interesting marriage with the wild. Living in boxes, moving in boxes, motivated by fear and wants we are divorced from the chance of some kind of union with the cycle s of life.
Theres much more to this theme ....
lets hope that the power stay on and i can write more later
i am off for a walk now to a small village some miles south.
stay smiley
bo
Thursday, September 07, 2006
manali
Who can say how things will change in india
but the rate of touristic development is quite amazing.
This small town which I spent a week in many moons ago
is quite develped and unrecognisable. Even so, you must see this valley to
believe how beautiful it is. outside my window I have many marijuanna plants growning wild
and the wamr musky smell of charas wafts upto my room.
I got up and saw a little boy making hash outside my window some ten feet
below. He smiled and showed me his hands, bacl with the resin of this
wild herb that is every where. strange world hey
near the hot springs theres
a small temple full of pseudo sadhus smoking
the old chillum and coughing for india.
what differing worlds we all live in.
I think that this wouldnt go down to well
outside York minster do you.
lots more to come
bo
but the rate of touristic development is quite amazing.
This small town which I spent a week in many moons ago
is quite develped and unrecognisable. Even so, you must see this valley to
believe how beautiful it is. outside my window I have many marijuanna plants growning wild
and the wamr musky smell of charas wafts upto my room.
I got up and saw a little boy making hash outside my window some ten feet
below. He smiled and showed me his hands, bacl with the resin of this
wild herb that is every where. strange world hey
near the hot springs theres
a small temple full of pseudo sadhus smoking
the old chillum and coughing for india.
what differing worlds we all live in.
I think that this wouldnt go down to well
outside York minster do you.
lots more to come
bo
pass passed and passes
hello all
I have been without internet and also resting after a grueling journey.
Well friends in the dark and the icy conditions I travelled over some of the
worlds highest passes. Yes at two o'clock on the 4th I met an irrate taxi man in the
dark to be told that our seats had not been booked or had been over booked and also
he need more money from us. As I was travelling with seven Israiles who are generally extremely rude and arrogant (more objectivity on that in a later post) diplomacy was needed in a big way. Luckily I was also with a wonderful kiwi/oz/taiwan traveller!! Anyway aremed with a silly hat
I went out and explained various options and SOLUTIONS to the problems.
WEll, the wrangling went on and on for over an hour and a half until and strange compromise was reached. I can relate the whole tale to you at a later date. Needless to say,
we moved off on the trail of no return.
Darkness fatigue and the most rediculous amount of hairneck hair raising hairpins on the planet
took us over in the dawn. What a fucking exhausitng exhilirating 18hrs of sheer joy and pain. India really is the country of opposites. While we crammed and fiddled our way(complete with ipods) over the beauty that is ladakh and hamichal pradesh the sun rose and we follwed the shadows until we met the sky up high. I must say at this stage you must drop weverything and get on a plane to india. It's even better that it was 13 years ago when i first came here. Yes folks just drop all and come and see some of the most amasing sites the plaet has to offer.
It was tiring a wee bit scary as my sphincter got the old work out as we overtook on blind hairpins
with nothing but hundreds of meters of drop welcoming us if the driver was an inch off. (The driver was amazingly adapt by the way and had the lovely name of yogish.) So the exhiliration carried us through the bangs and clatters as we made our salow way over the peaks.
Let me say that this place makes the alps luck like otely chevin( or for north america it dwarves your rockies or appalachians!) yes its an amzing place that will be seen by many of you if you get hold of me and want to be guided,(more later.)
So after 18 hrs of pain and mnarvel we cruised into what was once my old small town of manali.
Belive me when i said that this place has grown at least ten times and changed completely unrecognizably. 13 years ago it was a small hippy hang out that had my favourite small hotel
(HOTEL ANUS no joke i have the pics to prove it) so today after resting up i am going to walk round what seems to me to be las vegas in the himalaya. More on that . much more soon..
enjoy your day whatever longitude you reside in.
bo
I have been without internet and also resting after a grueling journey.
Well friends in the dark and the icy conditions I travelled over some of the
worlds highest passes. Yes at two o'clock on the 4th I met an irrate taxi man in the
dark to be told that our seats had not been booked or had been over booked and also
he need more money from us. As I was travelling with seven Israiles who are generally extremely rude and arrogant (more objectivity on that in a later post) diplomacy was needed in a big way. Luckily I was also with a wonderful kiwi/oz/taiwan traveller!! Anyway aremed with a silly hat
I went out and explained various options and SOLUTIONS to the problems.
WEll, the wrangling went on and on for over an hour and a half until and strange compromise was reached. I can relate the whole tale to you at a later date. Needless to say,
we moved off on the trail of no return.
Darkness fatigue and the most rediculous amount of hairneck hair raising hairpins on the planet
took us over in the dawn. What a fucking exhausitng exhilirating 18hrs of sheer joy and pain. India really is the country of opposites. While we crammed and fiddled our way(complete with ipods) over the beauty that is ladakh and hamichal pradesh the sun rose and we follwed the shadows until we met the sky up high. I must say at this stage you must drop weverything and get on a plane to india. It's even better that it was 13 years ago when i first came here. Yes folks just drop all and come and see some of the most amasing sites the plaet has to offer.
It was tiring a wee bit scary as my sphincter got the old work out as we overtook on blind hairpins
with nothing but hundreds of meters of drop welcoming us if the driver was an inch off. (The driver was amazingly adapt by the way and had the lovely name of yogish.) So the exhiliration carried us through the bangs and clatters as we made our salow way over the peaks.
Let me say that this place makes the alps luck like otely chevin( or for north america it dwarves your rockies or appalachians!) yes its an amzing place that will be seen by many of you if you get hold of me and want to be guided,(more later.)
So after 18 hrs of pain and mnarvel we cruised into what was once my old small town of manali.
Belive me when i said that this place has grown at least ten times and changed completely unrecognizably. 13 years ago it was a small hippy hang out that had my favourite small hotel
(HOTEL ANUS no joke i have the pics to prove it) so today after resting up i am going to walk round what seems to me to be las vegas in the himalaya. More on that . much more soon..
enjoy your day whatever longitude you reside in.
bo
pass passed and passes
hello all
I have been without internet and also resting after a grueling journey.
Well friends in the dark and the icy conditions I travelled over some of the
worlds highest passes. Yes at two o'clock on the 4th I met an irrate taxi man in the
dark to be told that our seats had not been booked or had been over booked and also
he need more money from us. As I was travelling with seven Israiles who are generally extremely rude and arrogant (more objectivity on that in a later post) diplomacy was needed in a big way. Luckily I was also with a wonderful kiwi/oz/taiwan traveller!! Anyway aremed with a silly hat
I went out and explained various options and SOLUTIONS to the problems.
WEll, the wrangling went on and on for over an hour and a half until and strange compromise was reached. I can relate the whole tale to you at a later date. Needless to say,
we moved off on the trail of no return.
Darkness fatigue and the most rediculous amount of hairneck hair raising hairpins on the planet
took us over in the dawn. What a fucking exhausitng exhilirating 18hrs of sheer joy and pain. India really is the country of opposites. While we crammed and fiddled our way(complete with ipods) over the beauty that is ladakh and hamichal pradesh the sun rose and we follwed the shadows until we met the sky up high. I must say at this stage you must drop weverything and get on a plane to india. It's even better that it was 13 years ago when i first came here. Yes folks just drop all and come and see some of the most amasing sites the plaet has to offer.
It was tiring a wee bit scary as my sphincter got the old work out as we overtook on blind hairpins
with nothing but hundreds of meters of drop welcoming us if the driver was an inch off. (The driver was amazingly adapt by the way and had the lovely name of yogish.) So the exhiliration carried us through the bangs and clatters as we made our salow way over the peaks.
Let me say that this place makes the alps luck like otely chevin( or for north america it dwarves your rockies or appalachians!) yes its an amzing place that will be seen by many of you if you get hold of me and want to be guided,(more later.)
So after 18 hrs of pain and mnarvel we cruised into what was once my old small town of manali.
Belive me when i said that this place has grown at least ten times and changed completely unrecognizably. 13 years ago it was a small hippy hang out that had my favourite small hotel
(HOTEL ANUS no joke i have the pics to prove it) so today after resting up i am going to walk round what seems to me to be las vegas in the himalaya. More on that . much more soon..
enjoy your day whatever longitude you reside in.
bo
I have been without internet and also resting after a grueling journey.
Well friends in the dark and the icy conditions I travelled over some of the
worlds highest passes. Yes at two o'clock on the 4th I met an irrate taxi man in the
dark to be told that our seats had not been booked or had been over booked and also
he need more money from us. As I was travelling with seven Israiles who are generally extremely rude and arrogant (more objectivity on that in a later post) diplomacy was needed in a big way. Luckily I was also with a wonderful kiwi/oz/taiwan traveller!! Anyway aremed with a silly hat
I went out and explained various options and SOLUTIONS to the problems.
WEll, the wrangling went on and on for over an hour and a half until and strange compromise was reached. I can relate the whole tale to you at a later date. Needless to say,
we moved off on the trail of no return.
Darkness fatigue and the most rediculous amount of hairneck hair raising hairpins on the planet
took us over in the dawn. What a fucking exhausitng exhilirating 18hrs of sheer joy and pain. India really is the country of opposites. While we crammed and fiddled our way(complete with ipods) over the beauty that is ladakh and hamichal pradesh the sun rose and we follwed the shadows until we met the sky up high. I must say at this stage you must drop weverything and get on a plane to india. It's even better that it was 13 years ago when i first came here. Yes folks just drop all and come and see some of the most amasing sites the plaet has to offer.
It was tiring a wee bit scary as my sphincter got the old work out as we overtook on blind hairpins
with nothing but hundreds of meters of drop welcoming us if the driver was an inch off. (The driver was amazingly adapt by the way and had the lovely name of yogish.) So the exhiliration carried us through the bangs and clatters as we made our salow way over the peaks.
Let me say that this place makes the alps luck like otely chevin( or for north america it dwarves your rockies or appalachians!) yes its an amzing place that will be seen by many of you if you get hold of me and want to be guided,(more later.)
So after 18 hrs of pain and mnarvel we cruised into what was once my old small town of manali.
Belive me when i said that this place has grown at least ten times and changed completely unrecognizably. 13 years ago it was a small hippy hang out that had my favourite small hotel
(HOTEL ANUS no joke i have the pics to prove it) so today after resting up i am going to walk round what seems to me to be las vegas in the himalaya. More on that . much more soon..
enjoy your day whatever longitude you reside in.
bo
Sunday, September 03, 2006
polo @ 3500 metres
with a packed house full of intrepid travellers
the locals took on the military here at the
polo ground in leh.
The sun had made a fantastic unexpected appearance
as the players came to the main show area and
saluted the official guests,( some muppets from delhi!)
With a quick whistle we were off and the cork round sphere
was belted into the red teams half. The level of dexterity of
these horsemen on these small mounts was astonishing
and they managed to put on a great show as the gods in the
nearby mountains watched on giving there blessing with
hot sunlight.
I was unaware as to who was who but it didnt seem to matter
as we all cheered and hid as the ball thing fell into a puddle not five feet from us.
Slicing was commo so we took the oppotunbity to hide behind our indians host
who sat fearlesds laughing at the overpriced travellers all cowering away from the
idea of two gapping holes in the front of their face.
With the two halfs up and the reds the winner 3-1 we walked off with the
throng into the main bazaar of Leh.
well that was a first for me friends.
You must all get booked and see it for yourself next year.
leaving for the mad passes in a few days
shopping tomorrow
get your orders in
bo
the locals took on the military here at the
polo ground in leh.
The sun had made a fantastic unexpected appearance
as the players came to the main show area and
saluted the official guests,( some muppets from delhi!)
With a quick whistle we were off and the cork round sphere
was belted into the red teams half. The level of dexterity of
these horsemen on these small mounts was astonishing
and they managed to put on a great show as the gods in the
nearby mountains watched on giving there blessing with
hot sunlight.
I was unaware as to who was who but it didnt seem to matter
as we all cheered and hid as the ball thing fell into a puddle not five feet from us.
Slicing was commo so we took the oppotunbity to hide behind our indians host
who sat fearlesds laughing at the overpriced travellers all cowering away from the
idea of two gapping holes in the front of their face.
With the two halfs up and the reds the winner 3-1 we walked off with the
throng into the main bazaar of Leh.
well that was a first for me friends.
You must all get booked and see it for yourself next year.
leaving for the mad passes in a few days
shopping tomorrow
get your orders in
bo
lives
i have been extremely fortunate in my life to have lived many lives.
A smany of you know there never has been one P hillman.
The CFS I have has been both a bane and blessing to me.
The fact that I have spent over 20 yrs on the road
has been rather unique and enchanting.
The scarifices that I have given up are legion
but there can be few more liberating experiences than being
one westerner in the mass of humanity that inhabits our
planet. The fact always strikes me that we live such a false
synthetic life in the west. the whole structure is maintained on
so many false premises. In many ways thats why I came back here.
To taste a little of the reality that 70% of the marginalised people
who share this amazing globe live in each day.
I ramble but I hope something gets through...
bo
A smany of you know there never has been one P hillman.
The CFS I have has been both a bane and blessing to me.
The fact that I have spent over 20 yrs on the road
has been rather unique and enchanting.
The scarifices that I have given up are legion
but there can be few more liberating experiences than being
one westerner in the mass of humanity that inhabits our
planet. The fact always strikes me that we live such a false
synthetic life in the west. the whole structure is maintained on
so many false premises. In many ways thats why I came back here.
To taste a little of the reality that 70% of the marginalised people
who share this amazing globe live in each day.
I ramble but I hope something gets through...
bo
Saturday, September 02, 2006
cold catch up
its sooo cold and wet here now that i thought that i would write
you this brief catch up. brrrrrr
I spent the morning watching a buddhist mask dance outside one
of the small temples here in the centre of leh.
it was all obviously for the tourists and it
succeeded in bringing out a good crowd.
I got some shots and sat shaking with the other wet
westerners.
The weather has played a large part in the toursist season here
with torrents of rain destroying roads and folk cancelling their trekking.
So the short season they have had has been devasted this year.
I have been spening my time reading and walking locally.
The cold has meant that I havent been able to do much
but they have amasing bakeries here with all manner of chocolate.
I shall be going down to manali on tuesday morning at 2 AM
arghhhhhhh fucking jeep ride over the worlds second highest pass
in the dark etc....
more fun
you should all be here enjoying this incredible land.
Ive heard its a bit warmer down there anyway.
Indian Road signs
these are a few of the road signs that I saw coming over the passes here.
'no swerve on my curve!'
'be gentle on my curves'
'if married divorce speed'
'you are on horsepower not rumpower'
'if you sleep your family will weep'
the indians love playing with English.
anyway folks its too cold for me in this
internet booth
write when you can and i shall endeavour to get more online
soon.
namaste
bo
you this brief catch up. brrrrrr
I spent the morning watching a buddhist mask dance outside one
of the small temples here in the centre of leh.
it was all obviously for the tourists and it
succeeded in bringing out a good crowd.
I got some shots and sat shaking with the other wet
westerners.
The weather has played a large part in the toursist season here
with torrents of rain destroying roads and folk cancelling their trekking.
So the short season they have had has been devasted this year.
I have been spening my time reading and walking locally.
The cold has meant that I havent been able to do much
but they have amasing bakeries here with all manner of chocolate.
I shall be going down to manali on tuesday morning at 2 AM
arghhhhhhh fucking jeep ride over the worlds second highest pass
in the dark etc....
more fun
you should all be here enjoying this incredible land.
Ive heard its a bit warmer down there anyway.
Indian Road signs
these are a few of the road signs that I saw coming over the passes here.
'no swerve on my curve!'
'be gentle on my curves'
'if married divorce speed'
'you are on horsepower not rumpower'
'if you sleep your family will weep'
the indians love playing with English.
anyway folks its too cold for me in this
internet booth
write when you can and i shall endeavour to get more online
soon.
namaste
bo
Friday, September 01, 2006
catch up gompa stompa
sorry all for the delay
i have been trying to walk a little and get used to the views and the air
.
two days ago i walked up to the gompa
which can only be classed as a breathless dash for
an amazing very unique vantage point looking out
over the himalaya. kinda like a runway to infinity!
so i got out my ipod and did some yoga on the edge.
very nice
walked around the stupa
nearly had tears in my eyes.
with the police blasting out in my head
ran down in the thin air. very nice.
then i got lost in a buddhsit graveyard looking for another older gompa
i shall update this blog properly later in the day
if the power stays on
more soon
namaste
bo
i have been trying to walk a little and get used to the views and the air
.
two days ago i walked up to the gompa
which can only be classed as a breathless dash for
an amazing very unique vantage point looking out
over the himalaya. kinda like a runway to infinity!
so i got out my ipod and did some yoga on the edge.
very nice
walked around the stupa
nearly had tears in my eyes.
with the police blasting out in my head
ran down in the thin air. very nice.
then i got lost in a buddhsit graveyard looking for another older gompa
i shall update this blog properly later in the day
if the power stays on
more soon
namaste
bo
Tuesday, August 29, 2006
leh
hello again
or should i say jallee as they say here.
i made it after waht can only be calle d fucking made run across the
hill to this odd tourist innundated place. (more about that in another
post when I have some energy.)
The trip across the zojila( the gateway from kashmir to ladakh
was rather spiffing in the front seat of a quiet nice
Indian TATA jeep.) Overnighting in the rathole was ok
I think that actually it was a fly farm!
Anyway I got up from one of my classic
i'm not going to sleep here nights to board
my rather plush looking love jeep that was going to take me over
some rediculous passes to my present location.
The jeep was full of a motley crue of ladies,indians, kashmiris and
of course my own stupid head. Things seemed to go well.
The young driver seemd ok till we got to the mad bends.
Blind overtaking on hairpins on some of the highest passes in the world
is an experience you must try. You will learn to meditate rather quickly!
Anyway, things seemed to go swimmingly untill we came down from a highish
pass. we had stopped at some typical chai stop and then the radiator decided to blow.
he had been doing to much of the old over speed, over braking, over steering and the engine had had enough.
I looked on not surprised but a tiny bit annoyed as we had another
100 klicks to Leh and the weather this side of the passes was a little shitty.
so he vanished in the jeep leaving us all. He returned within ten mins and we all boarded
to be told that it wasnt fixed and that it would take a while to get there.
Yes folks every five or ten k's we had to stopp fill the radiator back up and
cool the engine off. It got to the point where he eventually just started driving the
jeep under water falls at the side of the road in an attempt to cool it down.
Well, we got onto the to of the plains(you know the ones that you seeeon national geographical
magazine covers,) and thyen she decided to blow big time. Smoke and steam pissong out all over. It was then that many folk decided to bail out and start flagging donw other traffic. I decided to hang on in there and get to leh one way or another with my young leh driver.
so from this point on it was ten k's and then it would stop: half an hr and then we would start again. He then decided to open her up and try and cannon ball run home to leh. I.e that petrol
gauge was flashing so we had to freewheel and hope that we could make it. That is get up to 80mph and then just free wheel for as far as we could through towns and villages
back to leh. Not too bad as we had passed most of the passes.
suffice to say. I made it and am now listening to jeff buckley writing to you.
there shall be more on this blog very soon when i have slept and rested a little
stay well
miss ya
bo makalu
or should i say jallee as they say here.
i made it after waht can only be calle d fucking made run across the
hill to this odd tourist innundated place. (more about that in another
post when I have some energy.)
The trip across the zojila( the gateway from kashmir to ladakh
was rather spiffing in the front seat of a quiet nice
Indian TATA jeep.) Overnighting in the rathole was ok
I think that actually it was a fly farm!
Anyway I got up from one of my classic
i'm not going to sleep here nights to board
my rather plush looking love jeep that was going to take me over
some rediculous passes to my present location.
The jeep was full of a motley crue of ladies,indians, kashmiris and
of course my own stupid head. Things seemed to go well.
The young driver seemd ok till we got to the mad bends.
Blind overtaking on hairpins on some of the highest passes in the world
is an experience you must try. You will learn to meditate rather quickly!
Anyway, things seemed to go swimmingly untill we came down from a highish
pass. we had stopped at some typical chai stop and then the radiator decided to blow.
he had been doing to much of the old over speed, over braking, over steering and the engine had had enough.
I looked on not surprised but a tiny bit annoyed as we had another
100 klicks to Leh and the weather this side of the passes was a little shitty.
so he vanished in the jeep leaving us all. He returned within ten mins and we all boarded
to be told that it wasnt fixed and that it would take a while to get there.
Yes folks every five or ten k's we had to stopp fill the radiator back up and
cool the engine off. It got to the point where he eventually just started driving the
jeep under water falls at the side of the road in an attempt to cool it down.
Well, we got onto the to of the plains(you know the ones that you seeeon national geographical
magazine covers,) and thyen she decided to blow big time. Smoke and steam pissong out all over. It was then that many folk decided to bail out and start flagging donw other traffic. I decided to hang on in there and get to leh one way or another with my young leh driver.
so from this point on it was ten k's and then it would stop: half an hr and then we would start again. He then decided to open her up and try and cannon ball run home to leh. I.e that petrol
gauge was flashing so we had to freewheel and hope that we could make it. That is get up to 80mph and then just free wheel for as far as we could through towns and villages
back to leh. Not too bad as we had passed most of the passes.
suffice to say. I made it and am now listening to jeff buckley writing to you.
there shall be more on this blog very soon when i have slept and rested a little
stay well
miss ya
bo makalu
leh
hello again
or should i say jallee as they say here.
i made it after waht can only be calle d fucking made run across the
hill to this odd tourist innundated place. (more about that in another
post when I have some energy.)
The trip across the zojila( the gateway from kashmir to ladakh
was rather spiffing in the front seat of a quiet nice
Indian TATA jeep.) Overnighting in the rathole was ok
I think that actually it was a fly farm!
Anyway I got up from one of my classic
i'm not going to sleep here nights to board
my rather plush looking love jeep that was going to take me over
some rediculous passes to my present location.
The jeep was full of a motley crue of ladies,indians, kashmiris and
of course my own stupid head. Things seemed to go well.
The young driver seemd ok till we got to the mad bends.
Blind overtaking on hairpins on some of the highest passes in the world
is an experience you must try. You will learn to meditate rather quickly!
Anyway, things seemed to go swimmingly untill we came down from a highish
pass. we had stopped at some typical chai stop and then the radiator decided to blow.
he had been doing to much of the old over speed, over braking, over steering and the engine had had enough.
I looked on not surprised but a tiny bit annoyed as we had another
100 klicks to Leh and the weather this side of the passes was a little shitty.
so he vanished in the jeep leaving us all. He returned within ten mins and we all boarded
to be told that it wasnt fixed and that it would take a while to get there.
Yes folks every five or ten k's we had to stopp fill the radiator back up and
cool the engine off. It got to the point where he eventually just started driving the
jeep under water falls at the side of the road in an attempt to cool it down.
Well, we got onto the to of the plains(you know the ones that you seeeon national geographical
magazine covers,) and thyen she decided to blow big time. Smoke and steam pissong out all over. It was then that many folk decided to bail out and start flagging donw other traffic. I decided to hang on in there and get to leh one way or another with my young leh driver.
so from this point on it was ten k's and then it would stop: half an hr and then we would start again. He then decided to open her up and try and cannon ball run home to leh. I.e that petrol
gauge was flashing so we had to freewheel and hope that we could make it. That is get up to 80mph and then just free wheel for as far as we could through towns and villages
back to leh. Not too bad as we had passed most of the passes.
suffice to say. I made it and am now listening to jeff buckley writing to you.
there shall be more on this blog very soon when i have slept and rested a little
stay well
miss ya
bo makalu
or should i say jallee as they say here.
i made it after waht can only be calle d fucking made run across the
hill to this odd tourist innundated place. (more about that in another
post when I have some energy.)
The trip across the zojila( the gateway from kashmir to ladakh
was rather spiffing in the front seat of a quiet nice
Indian TATA jeep.) Overnighting in the rathole was ok
I think that actually it was a fly farm!
Anyway I got up from one of my classic
i'm not going to sleep here nights to board
my rather plush looking love jeep that was going to take me over
some rediculous passes to my present location.
The jeep was full of a motley crue of ladies,indians, kashmiris and
of course my own stupid head. Things seemed to go well.
The young driver seemd ok till we got to the mad bends.
Blind overtaking on hairpins on some of the highest passes in the world
is an experience you must try. You will learn to meditate rather quickly!
Anyway, things seemed to go swimmingly untill we came down from a highish
pass. we had stopped at some typical chai stop and then the radiator decided to blow.
he had been doing to much of the old over speed, over braking, over steering and the engine had had enough.
I looked on not surprised but a tiny bit annoyed as we had another
100 klicks to Leh and the weather this side of the passes was a little shitty.
so he vanished in the jeep leaving us all. He returned within ten mins and we all boarded
to be told that it wasnt fixed and that it would take a while to get there.
Yes folks every five or ten k's we had to stopp fill the radiator back up and
cool the engine off. It got to the point where he eventually just started driving the
jeep under water falls at the side of the road in an attempt to cool it down.
Well, we got onto the to of the plains(you know the ones that you seeeon national geographical
magazine covers,) and thyen she decided to blow big time. Smoke and steam pissong out all over. It was then that many folk decided to bail out and start flagging donw other traffic. I decided to hang on in there and get to leh one way or another with my young leh driver.
so from this point on it was ten k's and then it would stop: half an hr and then we would start again. He then decided to open her up and try and cannon ball run home to leh. I.e that petrol
gauge was flashing so we had to freewheel and hope that we could make it. That is get up to 80mph and then just free wheel for as far as we could through towns and villages
back to leh. Not too bad as we had passed most of the passes.
suffice to say. I made it and am now listening to jeff buckley writing to you.
there shall be more on this blog very soon when i have slept and rested a little
stay well
miss ya
bo makalu
Sunday, August 27, 2006
rat hole on the border
hi all
i cant say much as the power keeps dying
lots to write.
im 5 miles from the pakistan border on my way to a buddhist kingdom
in some fly infested rat hole
i can see into pakistan from the road
a real marriage of the streams here
much more when i get home to
ladakh tomorrow
my hotel is like the prison from
cest miserable
till soon
namaste
bo
i cant say much as the power keeps dying
lots to write.
im 5 miles from the pakistan border on my way to a buddhist kingdom
in some fly infested rat hole
i can see into pakistan from the road
a real marriage of the streams here
much more when i get home to
ladakh tomorrow
my hotel is like the prison from
cest miserable
till soon
namaste
bo
Saturday, August 26, 2006
golf course
So i walked round the golf course on my way back to my
ride. On the way I saw this strange looking chap hitting golf balls.
opn closer inspection he proved to be an off duty officer. He had two
children throwing him balls and another two running out to retrieve.
He saw me and said,'hello ther. Jolly fine day for hitting a few balls.
would you like to hit a few?'
I smiled and gave him the 'I'm ok wave.'
He then took it very seriously and startted really trying to hit
the balls into the distance. I gave him the thumbs up and he smiled looked
proud and shouted at his young troop.
The rest of the day was slow and chilled out.
Basically I walked back to my ride and enjoyed the
slow haul back down into the heat that is Srinigar.
I'm off over the mountains tomorrow morning.
will fill you all in on the mad storm we had last night.
The boat was rocking like an old tramps knee.
take care folks
write when you can
I shall update when i can get to a terminal.
namaste
Bo
ride. On the way I saw this strange looking chap hitting golf balls.
opn closer inspection he proved to be an off duty officer. He had two
children throwing him balls and another two running out to retrieve.
He saw me and said,'hello ther. Jolly fine day for hitting a few balls.
would you like to hit a few?'
I smiled and gave him the 'I'm ok wave.'
He then took it very seriously and startted really trying to hit
the balls into the distance. I gave him the thumbs up and he smiled looked
proud and shouted at his young troop.
The rest of the day was slow and chilled out.
Basically I walked back to my ride and enjoyed the
slow haul back down into the heat that is Srinigar.
I'm off over the mountains tomorrow morning.
will fill you all in on the mad storm we had last night.
The boat was rocking like an old tramps knee.
take care folks
write when you can
I shall update when i can get to a terminal.
namaste
Bo
gulmarg
Yesterday i went to one of the few ski resorts in india
after a long week of getting here and walking I decided to do it all
in style. Ohhh yeah baby, seen as visa are sponsoring this trip
i hired a 4 by 4 chevvy and driver with 8 seats and just me.
A bit price for the day but we were doing a few miles.
The driver was a laid back chap and he drove reasonably sedately.
we missed a 4 yr old boy by 2 inches going through a village.
(we also hit a small bird on the way back.) I looked at him and said
'well done, you saved him!'
he replied,'so much traffic going so fast!'
i retorted,'dont be crazy lets be lazy!'
he laughed till he nearly pooed and we blasted off up the
hill to tangmarg the small village before the mountains.
IF anyone has been fortunate to have visited Aspen in Colorado then
you have an idea of this place. Gulmarg is reasonably high in the hills here
and is approached by the usual himalaya hairpins. The signs on the
corners read 'no swerve on my curve!' and other such marvellous phrases that
only the indians can invent.
The place itself contains the worlds highest golf course that to
be honest looked like a field full of young boys cutting the grass by hand,
with the occasional stick at one end.
But what a view in the background. The vastness is humbling up here.
I paid my 200rps and went on what can only be described as a european looking
gondola up the steep slopes to the half way point to the summit.
amasing views again as i passed over a few fileds of ganja and a strange clan of folk
who live in small huts covered by grass. Then on arrival I walked over to some small tea huts where
the indian couples who had come there to honeymoon sat arm in arm enjoying the view.
'Hashish sir!'
'Something to smoke sir?'
'have a look at our tea?'
From a small hut a wonderful looking kasmiri mountain man appeared with
the biggest smile.I followed him in met his crew of trusty madheads and sat for an hour or
so discussin the season and the best time to come back for snowboarding. Of course once again
the old hashish raised its head and i smiled and told them im a clean guy.
looks like the jan feb is the best for powder and boarding.
who knows id like to come bcak for a few weeks to sample the untouched snow.
we chatted for a while then i walked off
over the hills and down back to the base.
to be continued....
namaste
bo
p.s. lets hope that the power stays on as i am goin over the mtns tom
and its not looking good in ladakh
after a long week of getting here and walking I decided to do it all
in style. Ohhh yeah baby, seen as visa are sponsoring this trip
i hired a 4 by 4 chevvy and driver with 8 seats and just me.
A bit price for the day but we were doing a few miles.
The driver was a laid back chap and he drove reasonably sedately.
we missed a 4 yr old boy by 2 inches going through a village.
(we also hit a small bird on the way back.) I looked at him and said
'well done, you saved him!'
he replied,'so much traffic going so fast!'
i retorted,'dont be crazy lets be lazy!'
he laughed till he nearly pooed and we blasted off up the
hill to tangmarg the small village before the mountains.
IF anyone has been fortunate to have visited Aspen in Colorado then
you have an idea of this place. Gulmarg is reasonably high in the hills here
and is approached by the usual himalaya hairpins. The signs on the
corners read 'no swerve on my curve!' and other such marvellous phrases that
only the indians can invent.
The place itself contains the worlds highest golf course that to
be honest looked like a field full of young boys cutting the grass by hand,
with the occasional stick at one end.
But what a view in the background. The vastness is humbling up here.
I paid my 200rps and went on what can only be described as a european looking
gondola up the steep slopes to the half way point to the summit.
amasing views again as i passed over a few fileds of ganja and a strange clan of folk
who live in small huts covered by grass. Then on arrival I walked over to some small tea huts where
the indian couples who had come there to honeymoon sat arm in arm enjoying the view.
'Hashish sir!'
'Something to smoke sir?'
'have a look at our tea?'
From a small hut a wonderful looking kasmiri mountain man appeared with
the biggest smile.I followed him in met his crew of trusty madheads and sat for an hour or
so discussin the season and the best time to come back for snowboarding. Of course once again
the old hashish raised its head and i smiled and told them im a clean guy.
looks like the jan feb is the best for powder and boarding.
who knows id like to come bcak for a few weeks to sample the untouched snow.
we chatted for a while then i walked off
over the hills and down back to the base.
to be continued....
namaste
bo
p.s. lets hope that the power stays on as i am goin over the mtns tom
and its not looking good in ladakh
Friday, August 25, 2006
beat
hi
iv ben at the ski slope
researching today
too tired but will do a small
fill in tom before i am off over the loji ja
the gateway to ladakh on sunday morning
if any of you have ben to aspen in colorado then
you can imagine the place i have been today
is like what aspen would have looke like 60 yrs ago before the greed
heads got there.
anyway
more tomorrow
stay well
and post if you can
bo
iv ben at the ski slope
researching today
too tired but will do a small
fill in tom before i am off over the loji ja
the gateway to ladakh on sunday morning
if any of you have ben to aspen in colorado then
you can imagine the place i have been today
is like what aspen would have looke like 60 yrs ago before the greed
heads got there.
anyway
more tomorrow
stay well
and post if you can
bo
Thursday, August 24, 2006
by the way
by the way. ireaged my travels as being very fortunate
over the years. ( i realize that many of you will find that laughable
after the usa.) but now the bugs have got me for the first time in fucking
years. iv always been pretty immune to mozzies but now the be bugs have
eaten my forehead and feet.
the jhoys of being a buddhist when you cant kill the mozzies or bugs.
namaste pete
over the years. ( i realize that many of you will find that laughable
after the usa.) but now the bugs have got me for the first time in fucking
years. iv always been pretty immune to mozzies but now the be bugs have
eaten my forehead and feet.
the jhoys of being a buddhist when you cant kill the mozzies or bugs.
namaste pete
continued....
continued
The lightening had stoppe by now and I was ready for the cool
silent ride back to the boat. Accompanied by eagles of course.
This place really is out the book. I mean out the book. It's full
of mystical majstic foolery.
Rarely on my travels have I ben lucky enough to
visit a place solo and find it very little changed in years.
At least the wild life anyway.
I was on abus from the moghul gardens the other day with all
the locals. on learning i was a brit they paid my bus fare
and offered me food. Maybe it's me but the joys of traevl are
very evident her for those that embrace them in the right way.
anyway, I spent the day reading and writing on the boat.
Cool calm and chilled out with just me the bbc news and the
birds to watch
more tomorrow after i have ben to the ski resrt
namaste
bo
The lightening had stoppe by now and I was ready for the cool
silent ride back to the boat. Accompanied by eagles of course.
This place really is out the book. I mean out the book. It's full
of mystical majstic foolery.
Rarely on my travels have I ben lucky enough to
visit a place solo and find it very little changed in years.
At least the wild life anyway.
I was on abus from the moghul gardens the other day with all
the locals. on learning i was a brit they paid my bus fare
and offered me food. Maybe it's me but the joys of traevl are
very evident her for those that embrace them in the right way.
anyway, I spent the day reading and writing on the boat.
Cool calm and chilled out with just me the bbc news and the
birds to watch
more tomorrow after i have ben to the ski resrt
namaste
bo
floating vege
before I start let me apologize for all the typos.
many of you know I am a sufferer of cfs and when I am out
all day doing mad stuff I get too tired to write with the usual
brilliance that adorns my books. yeahhh !
yesterday I couldnt get to the net as it decided to go off
for 24 hrs here in kashmir. So an update.
I woke at 4.30 to the sound of my
small boatman giving me the heebee jeebees and telling me
to get up for the ride to the floating market.
after the usual haggle and price dis agreement we decided on a price and
he showed me onto the small shikara boat that they have used here for a
a thousnad years. Yes folks this boat was probably the original boat repaired.
In the cold darkness they speedily propelled me to our destination the floating vege
market some 1 and a half km away.
so nice to see the lightening flicking off the mountains to the south lighting the
lake for a fraction so I could see all the mtns and lakeboats which
can normally only be seen as pealr's lit by small lamps in the darkness.
we quickly wove through the reads and the lotus leaves floating near some very
odd rather 'lord of the rings' hobit houses built on the mud banks near the market.
(eagles once again diving down all over the place for odd scraps near the homesteads
of families that must have been here for many many moons)
then in the coldness I saw the odd market that floats on the waters not far from dall lake.
this ancient market sits amongst a few reed beds not far from the centre of srinigar.
it consists of small men paddling odd boats laden with veges and all manner of quality produce.
as there aren't many travellers here I was one of the few singled out for the usual hawkers selling everything from mink hats to jewels and flower seeds.
pretty odd really as all I wanted to do was watch the majestic eagles sat not 20 Ft from me
looking on sedately waiting for the odd scrap
to be continued.....
namaste
bo
many of you know I am a sufferer of cfs and when I am out
all day doing mad stuff I get too tired to write with the usual
brilliance that adorns my books. yeahhh !
yesterday I couldnt get to the net as it decided to go off
for 24 hrs here in kashmir. So an update.
I woke at 4.30 to the sound of my
small boatman giving me the heebee jeebees and telling me
to get up for the ride to the floating market.
after the usual haggle and price dis agreement we decided on a price and
he showed me onto the small shikara boat that they have used here for a
a thousnad years. Yes folks this boat was probably the original boat repaired.
In the cold darkness they speedily propelled me to our destination the floating vege
market some 1 and a half km away.
so nice to see the lightening flicking off the mountains to the south lighting the
lake for a fraction so I could see all the mtns and lakeboats which
can normally only be seen as pealr's lit by small lamps in the darkness.
we quickly wove through the reads and the lotus leaves floating near some very
odd rather 'lord of the rings' hobit houses built on the mud banks near the market.
(eagles once again diving down all over the place for odd scraps near the homesteads
of families that must have been here for many many moons)
then in the coldness I saw the odd market that floats on the waters not far from dall lake.
this ancient market sits amongst a few reed beds not far from the centre of srinigar.
it consists of small men paddling odd boats laden with veges and all manner of quality produce.
as there aren't many travellers here I was one of the few singled out for the usual hawkers selling everything from mink hats to jewels and flower seeds.
pretty odd really as all I wanted to do was watch the majestic eagles sat not 20 Ft from me
looking on sedately waiting for the odd scrap
to be continued.....
namaste
bo
Tuesday, August 22, 2006
walking
With my energy levles back up I have spent the day walking through
the old city. No tourists in site,(all day,) as I walked through the old
markets and down to the 14 century mosques. Yes folks It was just me as I walked
round one of Kashmirs bigest mosques. The old building is held up
by some one hundred tree trunks that have been hand carved and brought here, each from
one single tree. So cool in there and full of belief and use.
Strange to walk over where millions of folk congregate to worship.
Then off to a few more tombs and mosques before a quick ride to the
Silk emporium un by the government. The interesting thing was, apart for the
spinning jennies and the ancient machines clattering away,
I had to walk through a field full of full grown marijuana plants.
In a government store.
Ohhhh India how different you are.
Well I may try and get an update out later in the day
but I am a way from the town. I am off to watch eagles
and meditate for a while.
let me know how you are.
Namaste
bo
the old city. No tourists in site,(all day,) as I walked through the old
markets and down to the 14 century mosques. Yes folks It was just me as I walked
round one of Kashmirs bigest mosques. The old building is held up
by some one hundred tree trunks that have been hand carved and brought here, each from
one single tree. So cool in there and full of belief and use.
Strange to walk over where millions of folk congregate to worship.
Then off to a few more tombs and mosques before a quick ride to the
Silk emporium un by the government. The interesting thing was, apart for the
spinning jennies and the ancient machines clattering away,
I had to walk through a field full of full grown marijuana plants.
In a government store.
Ohhhh India how different you are.
Well I may try and get an update out later in the day
but I am a way from the town. I am off to watch eagles
and meditate for a while.
let me know how you are.
Namaste
bo
first evening
Fish jumping, sun dropping, shajara boat splitting the sunset over the
lake. Eagles in the distance, calling amazingly loud. A call I have never heard before.
The sound of guitars in the distance as the night pulls in and I begin my yoga on the
boat veranda.
Unique kashmir
bo
lake. Eagles in the distance, calling amazingly loud. A call I have never heard before.
The sound of guitars in the distance as the night pulls in and I begin my yoga on the
boat veranda.
Unique kashmir
bo
Monday, August 21, 2006
against the tide
Well, after 20 yrs i made it to kashmir.
I'm staying in a 90 ft boat alone on a lake slightly out of town.
I have two meals a day satallite tv and a marvellous host who does almost everything for me.
I am paying through the nose at five pounds a night but hey you have to live a little now and again hey!
hahaa.
I have seen about 13 tourists in the whole of kashmir!
yes its that quiet! Although polive out number us its so calm and relaxed
that you could throw a cow over the boat an no one would notice.
Maybe I am an old hat but to me iuts all been a breeze.
Believe me, when I get back I will fill you all in with it
as you simply have to come here and see it for yourself.
the boats are extremely well made and ornate
with the folk assisting in almost anyway you need.
forgive my english but i am tired
and the mad way they speak and act here is influencing my
writing. I am sure that you all know that baba.
anyway, if you have Q's you need to ask me as you
should all see this at least once in your life!
i shall be a little more coherent when I can
and the jet lag goes along with the mad dreams.
whats ken dod doing in kashmir?
namaste
bo
I'm staying in a 90 ft boat alone on a lake slightly out of town.
I have two meals a day satallite tv and a marvellous host who does almost everything for me.
I am paying through the nose at five pounds a night but hey you have to live a little now and again hey!
hahaa.
I have seen about 13 tourists in the whole of kashmir!
yes its that quiet! Although polive out number us its so calm and relaxed
that you could throw a cow over the boat an no one would notice.
Maybe I am an old hat but to me iuts all been a breeze.
Believe me, when I get back I will fill you all in with it
as you simply have to come here and see it for yourself.
the boats are extremely well made and ornate
with the folk assisting in almost anyway you need.
forgive my english but i am tired
and the mad way they speak and act here is influencing my
writing. I am sure that you all know that baba.
anyway, if you have Q's you need to ask me as you
should all see this at least once in your life!
i shall be a little more coherent when I can
and the jet lag goes along with the mad dreams.
whats ken dod doing in kashmir?
namaste
bo
Saturday, August 19, 2006
is this it?
comments
II write this in the spirit of 'are you experienced?' (hendrix) Since the age of
7 this question of is this it has been floating round my head. with no job,career,money
etc.... I find myself once again in the midst of India always questioning and always
observing life and this amazing planet. To those who have been here India needs no
introduction. It is alive in ways that many of the 50 or so other countrie I have visited
can't quite capture. The sheer scale of humanity is here at once humbling and
inspiring. when we are together enough here it gives
us a chance to juxta pose our often harried self important lives with the realities of
survival for 70% of the planet. (note to brother the scratch on your new Jaguar xkr isnt that
much of a problem!!)
It has not slipped my notice that people from the west come here to find space in country
that is one of the most densely populated on the planet. Perhaps in some ways this place doesnt allow the distractions that we have back in the west.
We are confronted by the plight of humanity and there is little chance to internalise the
suffering of our fellow folk.
hmmm?
i am beat and still jet lagged
so if you can make anything of this let me know.
i did have some problems with the blogger.com
yesterday so hope that you all get it
(pls ignore my typos)
namaste
next stop kashmir
bo
II write this in the spirit of 'are you experienced?' (hendrix) Since the age of
7 this question of is this it has been floating round my head. with no job,career,money
etc.... I find myself once again in the midst of India always questioning and always
observing life and this amazing planet. To those who have been here India needs no
introduction. It is alive in ways that many of the 50 or so other countrie I have visited
can't quite capture. The sheer scale of humanity is here at once humbling and
inspiring. when we are together enough here it gives
us a chance to juxta pose our often harried self important lives with the realities of
survival for 70% of the planet. (note to brother the scratch on your new Jaguar xkr isnt that
much of a problem!!)
It has not slipped my notice that people from the west come here to find space in country
that is one of the most densely populated on the planet. Perhaps in some ways this place doesnt allow the distractions that we have back in the west.
We are confronted by the plight of humanity and there is little chance to internalise the
suffering of our fellow folk.
hmmm?
i am beat and still jet lagged
so if you can make anything of this let me know.
i did have some problems with the blogger.com
yesterday so hope that you all get it
(pls ignore my typos)
namaste
next stop kashmir
bo
no worry no curry no hurry
bang,horn,shite,smoke,curry,heat,fly,sir-sir,dust,
cows,rupee,rickshaw,taxi,clean shoe, from which country.
Yes this is India... the motherland. Fantastic fuckwhittery
in the key of life. For those of you who have n't been here,(shame)
the life here is as 'real' as anywhere on the planet. you will just hve to get here
by boat rickshaw or thumb it needs to be seen to be believed.
After my two years in the states its quite trippy to be back in
this land of hidden wonder and love.
more later in the day when this fucking jet lag eases.
Ahhhh hotel anoop you saved me again...
namaste
bo
cows,rupee,rickshaw,taxi,clean shoe, from which country.
Yes this is India... the motherland. Fantastic fuckwhittery
in the key of life. For those of you who have n't been here,(shame)
the life here is as 'real' as anywhere on the planet. you will just hve to get here
by boat rickshaw or thumb it needs to be seen to be believed.
After my two years in the states its quite trippy to be back in
this land of hidden wonder and love.
more later in the day when this fucking jet lag eases.
Ahhhh hotel anoop you saved me again...
namaste
bo
Wednesday, August 09, 2006
its coming
with a week to go i am getting my shite together
as i am moving from my place of residence on my return.
some very good friends have decided to provide a roof
over my head. the sacrifices i have made over the
years to enable my travel have caught up with
me in many ways,but the journey goes on.
next post should be from delhi
as i am moving from my place of residence on my return.
some very good friends have decided to provide a roof
over my head. the sacrifices i have made over the
years to enable my travel have caught up with
me in many ways,but the journey goes on.
next post should be from delhi
Friday, August 04, 2006
it begins
hello allon the 17th of August I shall be embarking on a new
chapter in my life of travel:
kashmir,Ladakh and the lower himalaya.
i hope you can join me....
as always it promises to be an experience to remember...